OUTLOOK Project holds show of both ancient and modern Ukrainian outfits “Ukrainian Embroidery. Step in Time” for mass media
OUTLOOK Project (www.theoutlook.com.ua) that operates in the spheres of media and culture diplomacy became organizer of the event. Through its activity OUTLOOK (www.theoutlook.com.ua) establishes friendly contacts between countries thus forming new cultural and social ties.
The event was initiated by the Ministry of Information Policy of Ukraine that coordinates events for foreign mass media on presentation and popularization of ethnic, historic and cultural legacy of Ukraine with participation of volunteers and organizations.
“It was very interesting for us as for a project and as for a public organization to join in implementation of such a mission and gather best partners for this event. Because each of them demonstrates in own work that civil society exists and develops in Ukraine and that young Ukrainians are eager to show how multifaceted Ukraine is, to spread our culture and our achievements around the world. I would like to thank everyone who participated in the event. I am sure that together we create modern history of Ukraine”, noted Director General of OUTLOOK Project Daria Kariakina in her solemn speech.
“Ukrainian Embroidery Step in Time” event was intended to show that national clothes harbor deep symbolism and historic heritage. During the show trends were presented, that do not loose relevance in the course of time.
“Today we want to show that our nation burgeons and that embroidery, clothes, history, way of life are all parts of formation of a new nation. Thank you for finding time to share it with us and I wish you all the best impressions. I thank OUTLOOK Project and personally Daria Kariakina for supporting our initiative to show to foreigners Ukraine the way we see and feel it, - First Deputy Minister of Information Policy of Ukraine Emine Japarova emphasized.
Nowadays just like centuries ago, embroidery remains an integral part of style of present-time Ukrainians. Patterns differ by region and color scheme but not by their symbolism.
During the show journalists and guests saw 10 unique sets from Zakarpattya, Poltava region, Bukovyna, Eastern Podillya and Western Polissya, gathered during multiple expeditions, and new interpretation of embroidery and patterns that are popular among Ukrainian youth.
Especially for the performance a topical area was set, where each model, alongside demonstration of clothes, also showed traditional occupations of Ukrainian women: embroidery, weaving, poppy seeds milling, playing musical instruments… Olaxandra Herasymova, collector from Lubny, Poltava region, who provided authentic embroidered towels rushnyks, homespun runner rugs, decorated hessian-like fabrics ryadnynas, hempen carpets, decorative edges pidzors and woolen coverlets lizhnyks, contributed to organization of this colorful zone.
Unique samples of ancient costumes were especially provided for “Ukrainian Embroidery. Step in Time” presentation by owners of “Ukraina Аntiqua” Gallery Ihor Tureyskyy and Maxim Ochkur. “As far back as in late 19th – early 20th century over 200 embroidery techniques existed in Ukraine that were later supplanted by cross-stitch; in our collection we have items ornamented in various techniques: darning, unique variation of running stitch and backstitch, different kinds of satin stitch, exsection and incision stitches, lacy stitch, padding, cross-stitch and others, we also have items with woven elements”, collectors tell.
In their collection I. Tureyskyy and M. Ochkur try to present elements of applied arts from every region of Ukraine. Currently sets and elements from Western Polissya, Zakarpattya, Poltava, Chernihiv, Vinnytsya, Kyiv and Cherkassy regions are presented best. Items were collected from heirs of those who wore them, a hefty part was gathered at flee markets.
Guests had an opportunity to have a look at a festive outfit from Poltava region. Traditional set is based on homespun hempen cloth, embroidered with white thread in ancient techniques – unique variation of backstich and exsection. Distinctive color is added to the look by plakhta – a piece of cloth, woven from variegated woolen threads to create an incredible bright color scheme in various patterns, red belt with pom poms, leather boots and remarkable adornments!
Guests were charmed by embroidery from Bukovyna, performed in multi-colored threads in cross-stitch and stem stitch based on a pattern that combines floral and geometric ornamentation, characteristic for the region. Skirt of this set is called horbatka. It is made of woolen threads and decorated with artistic weaving. It is fixed with a silk belt, expensive and complicated-to-produce item. Chest-covering item of the set is keptar or tsurkana – leather sleeveless jacket with fur, leather applique and embroidery.
Girl’s gala outfit from Zakarpattya made quite an impression! The shirt, that is called dovhanya , has a back vent – this is a distinctive feature that existed in this region alone. It is embroidered with oblique satin stitch, stem stitch, unique variation of running stitch and overstitching. The skirt is a large section of fine woolen fabric adorned with a soutache (lacing), sewn-up pleats, variegated ribbons, tassels and lacework at the hemline.
Female gala set from Eastern Podillya was presented. It is based on a shirt of homespun cloth, embroidered in black. Interestingly, this color is extremely popular in the region and was considered as nearly as festive. The shirt is embroidered with special variation of running stitch that is called “insertion” in Vinnytsya region. Another basis for the look is woolen skirt, adorned with velvet and girded with homespun woolen belt.
The set was completed with beadwork adornments called “zgarda” in Vinnytsya region as well as with neckless and a headdress: velvet ribbon, decorated with beads and glass beads.
Female gala set from Western Polissya was also presented. The shirt is sewn from homespun linen cloth, embroidered with red threads in techniques of darning, cross-stitch, satin stitch with archaic geometric patterns. And litnyk skirt is woven from wool in multicolored stripes; alongside it embroidered canvas pinafore is worn, girded with homespun belt “krayka”. Adornments were a rarity in Western Polissya so there isn’t much beadwork here, the only adornment is “molytovka” – medallion depicting Holy Mother.
Modern Ukrainian fashion will be presented by dresses of designer Yulia Magdych, who combined aesthetics of Ukrainian national traditions and vogue of new jet-set in her brand.
By interpreting DNA of classic vyshyvanka (embroidered clothes), the designer creates some sort of a “uniform” for a contemporary lady – these looks, gorgeous and casual at the same time, suit both morning walks and gala dinners.
Hallmark of the brand is this technically sophisticated relief embroidery, elaborated based on patterns discovered in museums, private collections and during history learning trips around Ukraine.
The show was beautified by vivid patterns of roses on modern shirts. Interestingly, patters with “ruzha” – the way the flower is otherwise called in Ukraine – were laid out by rules of floral ornamentation, that meant unbreakable circle of sun with eternal renewal. A dress called “Porcelain Flowers” especially amazed the guests. By design and color scheme, it symbolizes love, of course.
A look called “Chronicles. Echo of Ages” was impressive, too. It is dedicated to Makosh goddess – ancient Slavic patron of fate, fertility, family heart, yarning and weaving.
Certain modern outfits were decorated with symbols of beauty and power - snowball tree and oak. Snowball tree is a tree of our Ukrainian kind. Mighty world-creating Ukrainian chain: drop of blood – woman – birth – Ukraine – Rebirth. Oak is a sacred tree that impersonated Perun, god of both male and female sun energy, development and life.
Currently Yuliya Magdych brand is represented in 20 countries of Europe, the United States, Arab countries and in 40 others. Among fans of art of Yulia Magdych there are celebrities, editors of Vogue magazine, fashion-bloggers, Arab princesses and influential IT-girls.
Music accompaniment for the event of lively Ukrainian songs was created by singing and dancing group Zernyatko (Art Director Raisa Zakletska), Iryna Rodionova – director of Chapel of Bandura Players of R. Glier Kyiv Institute of Music, Ukrainian pop-band Vroda that combines in its art modern sounds and traditional melodies. We also thank students of Institute of International Relations of Taras Shevchenko National University of Kyiv Anastasia Kariakina, Oryna sira, Anna Vakarova, Olexandra Panasyuk, Anna Kvashuk and Daria Temchenko for participation in our show in capacity of models.