RU  UK  EN
Articles  >  Enjoy  >  Fashion Pioneers

Fashion Pioneers

Author: 02.02.2016 | art
Fashion is an act. Fashion is a demonstration of freedom. Not being afraid to once seem ridiculous and odd, a person risks to become a part of fashion industry. Some names it remembers, some are wrongly forgotten and for some it becomes a pursuit, the meaning of the whole life.

The first one to appear in public wearing a vest was King Charles II of England. Prior a funny jacket with short sleeves could be seen nowhere except perhaps on Gilles – a character of French comedy theatre. Originally this piece of clothing was worn exclusively under a camisole or at home in the capacity of a dressing-gown. It became truly posh in the era of the French Revolution. It started being tailored of velvet and silk, decorated with embroidery, lace and gems. And in 19th century floral, striped and checkered vests appeared. Their cut was changing constantly: length, shape of neck hole and pockets, nature of fastenings. Dandies took fancy of this wardrobe item. Some used to put on two or three at once. In merely a decade women started wearing vests, too.

Little black dress that, as they say, each of us should own, saw the world in 1926. Coco Chanel didn’t intend it to be a fashion novelty at all. Her beloved died in a car accident so the designer made herself a mournful outfit. The dress evoked bursts of emotions amongst contemporaries. It had an unusual length for those times – a little below knee – and it lacked all kinds of decoration: laces, beads or frills. And it was black, at long last! And only poor people used to wear this color in early 20th century. But ultimately success awaited Coco’s creation. It was then when editors of ‘Vogue’ foretold that the design would become universal for years to come – and they were right.

Originally heels were invented for the sterner sex and they were first worn back in the times of pharaohs. Ancient Egyptians used to make their footwear slightly higher to easily master complex route sections. The Mongols used to control horses with the help of heels. And French monarch Louis XIV was the first European to put such footwear on. The Sun King was afflicted with the sense of inferiority because he was short in height. In order to evoke more respect in his people he began wearing higher shoes. The word is Leonardo da Vinci suggested it to him. Ladies paid attention to heels only half a century after that. But they lost common sense really fast. Shoes that came into vogue were hard to stand in not to mention walk. Therefore as an accessory to odd footwear many used canes not to fall to the ground. However modern version of heels came down to us thank to an Italian Salvatore Ferragamo. Spike heel belongs to him and now to all women of the world.

Shortly prior to World War II American fashion magazine ‘Vogue’ suggested that women put on trousers. And not just some pants but jeans. That’s how legendary walk of iconic clothes began. Designers insisted it would be comfortable for women too both work and rest in denim. But it was the fastening that made the biggest splash. Tailors suggested having it on women’s pants not on the side but at the front that gave rise to the largest wave of debates over the novelty. Many called it indecent and criticized jeans in both society and the press. There was even an attempt to oppose them on governmental level. And only after 20 years of tongue-clacking ladies were finally allowed to casually parade jeans pants in the streets and Marilyn Monroe, for instance, was willingly doing that.

To denude one of the most exciting female body parts – legs – was suggested in 1964 by an English designer Mary Quant when she brought for public consideration a revolutionary suggestion – a mini-skirt or as she called it ‘a skirt you can run for a bus in’. Truth be told, Mary’s friend Linda Quaisin threw her the idea. The girl was cleaning her home once and long lap was tangling her feet. Without a second thought Linda cut the lap short with her scissors. On seeing how great her friend looked in a sudden new outfit, the designer created many short skirts and put them up for sale in her designer store at King’s Road. Emancipated English women caught fancy of the novelty fast which also brought quite some pleasure to male Londoners. In merely a couple of years this wardrobe item won hearts almost everywhere around the globe.

Black wedding dress. The first one to walk down the isle in such an unusual outfit was a famous American actress Sara Jessica Parker. She was so eager for her wedding with Matthew Broderick to be noticed by fashion critics and for the couple’s pictures to decorate as nearly as every fashion publication. And in order to forever make it into fashion history, Sara opted for the black color. As for 1997 it was a defiant gesture. However the actress’s escapade was warmly welcome and as soon as in several months designers all over the world started having brides dressed in black in their wedding collections.

Keffiyeh, or as they also call it in Arabic states ‘kufia’ has come into fashion in Europe relatively recently. And while in the Middle East it is more often than not worn by men, in more northerly latitudes the kerchief doesn’t have gender-based restrictions. Europeans threw it on their shoulders, cover neck with it, use it to tie waist. Originally kufia was intended to protect nomads’ faces from sand and dust. Kufa, a city in Arabia, is believed to be its birthplace. It is made of cotton, wool, rarely of synthetic fibers. And its name ‘arafatka’, customary for us, got stuck to the Arabic kerchief during Israeli-Palestinian conflict when the leader of Palestina Yasser Arafat was often on TV. He used to wear keffiyeh all the time and laid it in a special way so that its part that remained on the shoulder resembled historic shape of Palestina.

Clothes made of milk are a novelty of the last few years. On hearing about it many raise eyebrows in surprise while fashion critics already call it eco-clothes of the future. Anke Domaske, a German microbiologist, is the author of milk fabric. She gets a pretty firm thread out of sour product. In the course of processing, powder is made of it to be mixed with water, boiled and pressed. Milk fabric resembles silk in its characteristics; it is odorless and can bear thermal treatment. According to Anke, clothes made of such fibers are unique for they execute antibacterial effect and can regulate body temperature. However, they haven’t yet been taken to a wide assembly line.

It will be interesting:
SERGEI POLUNIN: BALLET, INTRIGUE, PROVOCATION
Ballet dancer Sergei Polunin, a native of Kherson, Ukraine, by chance enters the British Royal Ballet in London. He achieves a raving success, then disappears from view, and subsequently gains even greater public love. Today OUTLOOK continues the series of articles about successful Ukrainians!
Eastern music of Sufi: Qawali
‘Love evolves when one looks in the eyes of the person beloved seeing there God’, in such a way the lines of some Arabian song called Qawali is translated. The authorship of this chant is ascribed to Eastern strangers Sufi who tending to find the sense of existence strolled around the half an Earth bare-footed. In the travels they composed songs where they told narration describing what they had to endure.
THORNY PATH OF FLOWER
Traditional Japanese kabuki theatre has always been a mystery to the European mentality: only an expert on the culture of the Land of the Rising Sun can understand a play without guide’s tips.
THE GHOST BRUSH OF MISS HOKUSAI
The eccentric elder Katsushika Hokusai was the real star of the Edo period, the creative genius and the brutal debtor of the half of his city. He used at least 30 names, changed 93 houses and created a lot of prints, drawings and paintings. His internationally recognized print The Great Wave off Kanagawa is mesmerizing. But only a few people know that this block printing, as well as many other works, was created by Hokusai with assistance of his daughter - artist Katsushika Ōi, lost in time and overshadowed by her genius father crazy about art.
In Kyiv open the exhibition and mural by the author KLONE
KLONE is artist who was born in Ukraine. He left country when he was eleven years old. That is why he pays a special credit to the opportunity to present his exhibition in Ukraine and color mural. We were able to take an exclusive interview from the mysterious master who accurately hides even his true name from the world.
Belgian Lace: Waltz of a Thousand Threads
At the sight of Flemish lacework it is hard to shake the feeling that miraculous flowers, artfully braided into a wreath of a pattern, were born from loose sparks that had escaped a magic wand. On the inside of the beauty there are efforts and days of jetsam girls, stolen from life by labyrinth of openwork loops. Having compelled self-will of the thread to a dream about heaven, promised for humility, skills defied despair and need – to secure victory.
In Kyiv under the support of Embassy of Australia the exhibition ‘Artists-Ambassadors. Ukrainian Australiana’ has been opened
In the course of program of 2017 in honour of the 25-th anniversary of establishment of diplomatic relations between Australia and Ukraine as well as celebration of settlement of Ukrainians in Australia in Kyiv the exhibition ‘Artists-Ambassadors. Ukrainian Australiana’ has been opened.
The magnificent world of land-art: Patrick Dougherti
Land-art is not simply the landscape design but also the whole direction in art which in thee 21-st century considered one of the most important when only lazy people do not speak about the ‘green technologies’ and environment. The names of stars of such an activity have sturdily come into the speech of the tutors, critics, and connoisseurs, especially they outline Patrick Dougherti with his unbelievable works.
WHERE TO GO? TOP FIVE OF THE MOST INTERESTING MUSEUMS OF MODERN ART IN EUROPE
Françoise Barbe-Gall teaches how to talk to children about art. She gives practical advices in her books, teaches to see things invisible to many people, to notice details and forget about labels. But we have to admit that among adults there are very few people who can boast with expertise in this area. If you want to change this order of things, today we offer you to go with us to the museums. Yes, it's a good idea, since we have chosen the best.
A jewelry approach to perfection
Behind the window sad eyes of old man peered at Petrograd engulfed by revolutionary fire. This fire spread on his life's work: a proud four-story building was invaded by noisy commissioners and sailors, whose presence seemed a cruel joke after regular customers. Workshop owner Carl Gustavovich Fabergé, apparently, noticed in this chaos approaching decay of his career. However, he could have a secret gleam of hope for another life of his heritage. If only he knew that it would come true, maestro would hardly have lost his spiritual strength...
The Embassy of Turkey opened in Kyiv the exhibition ‘Water drawing. The sophisticated art ebru’
The Embassy of Turkey in Ukraine and personally Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary Yonet J. Tezel opened in National museum named after Taras Shevchenko exhibition ‘Drawing on the water. The sophisticated art ebru’ by the painter Hikmet Barutchugil.
The Embassy of Egypt in collaboration with Picasso East Art Gallery and Museum of history of Kyiv will open the exhibition of Egyptian art
On the 4-th of April in Museum of history of Kyiv the exhibition project of the modern visual art Egyptian Vision is about to open. For the first time in Kyiv the works of selected collection will be represented, particularly, nearly forty pictures of famous Egyptian masters among whom there are Munir Escander, Gergis Lotfi, Gamil Shafik, Hasan Abd Elfatah, Aayed Saad Eddin, Karim Abd El Malak, Hasan Rashed, etc.
Hayley King and her pictures: New Zealand on the border of beauty-new
The artist from New Zealand Hayley King working under the brand FLOX is well-known all over the world for the fascinating pictures showing the enlightened beauty of wild nature. Her colorful birds, picturesque landscapes, and fairy-tale-like animals remind us about the necessity to get united with the primordial nature. Hayley King creates the type of art giving inspiration and vitality. She is concentrated onto recognition of ancient heritage of the sacral places and making it spread among the wide publics. In the interview the artist told us about her social projects, travels and the modern cultural trends inherent to New Zealand.
"AN HOUR BEFORE" ballet
OUTLOOK is proceeding with publishing series of articles "An Hour Before" and specially for World Dance Day snuck behind the scenes of National Opera of Ukrainek! What happens off-stage while guests are taking their seats in the hall? How are ballet dancer getting ready? We also were interested to follow all those steps...
BRAND HISTORY. SUKHISHVILI GEORGIAN NATIONAL BALLET: CONQUERED SUMMITS OF SMALL GEORGIAN DREAM
Iliko, who devoted all his life to dancing, actually bequeathed to his descendants to do everything possible for his family name remained on posters forever. 70 years later, millions of people in hundreds of countries are buying tickets where in different languages, without translation one can easily read the name of Sukhishvili.
Artaud theatre: life is imitation of art
The power of gestures burns the text to ashes, sound deafens and takes to the abyss from which all of us come and where we return upon the accomplishment of a short time period called as the life. Attending the Theatre of Cruelty, a human appears in the centre of performance as there are everything we are hiding from in the everyday routine, particularly, freedom and isolation, life on the border, merging with the crows till self is lost and lonely residing at the top. The drama of being involves in its mineral resources, the echo of tragedy overwhelms publics and spectator without noticing it appears in the trap of the own perception. That is about the so-called ‘Theatre of Cruelty’ (theatre de cruaute), the child of French playwright and director, eccentric and shocking Antonen Artaud.
WITH THE SUPPORT OF THE AUSTRALIAN EMBASSY, AN EXHIBITION OF AUSTRALIAN ABORIGINAL ART OPENED IN KIEV
The Australian Embassy in Ukraine and personally Australian Chargé d'Affaires Bruce Edwards presented in Kiev gallery Triptych: Global Arts Workshop, an exhibition featuring outstanding artworks from some of the finest Australian Indigenous artists of the twentieth century Old Masters: Australia's Great Bark Artists
THE MINISTRY OF THE FOREIGN AFFAIRS OF UKRAINE HOSTED A PHOTO EXHIBITION DEDICATED TO THE 25TH ANNIVERSARY OF ESTABLISHMENT OF DIPLOMATIC RELATIONS BETWEEN UKRAINE AND THE PEOPLE'S REPUBLIC OF CHINA
On January 12, in the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Ukraine took place the opening ceremony of a photo exhibition on the occasion of the 25th anniversary of establishment of diplomatic relations between Ukraine and the People's Republic of China.
ART OF TOPIARY
When I, as a little girl, for the first time passed my hand over trimmed bush, my palm got scratched with sharp edges of twigs and lasting arborvitae fragrance hit my nose. Mesmerized, I was not able to take my eyes away from the cones, balls and squares that surrounded me in the park of a small resort town. I felt like being inside a fairy tale, where behind the leaves I could notice a smile of the Cheshire Cat.
Handicraft: persian rugs
In those days when the Persian soldiers were second to none, and both the Roman Empire and the Arabian Peninsula were conquered by their power, skilful fingers of winner nation craftswomen created their first masterpiece. The carpet called The Springtime passed into history as the most precious of all time. It symbolized powerful rule of the Persians, and its beauty told about the divine origin of the king Khosrow I.
Close
Outlook facebook page