RU  UK  EN
Статьи  >  Imagine  >  Belgian lace: Waltz of a thousand threads

Belgian lace: Waltz of a thousand threads

Автор: 14.05.2019 | art, Belgium
At the sight of Flemish lacework it is hard to shake the feeling that miraculous flowers, artfully braided into a wreath of a pattern, were born from loose sparks that had escaped a magic wand. On the inside of the beauty there are efforts and days of jetsam girls, stolen from life by labyrinth of openwork loops.

Having compelled self-will of the thread to a dream about heaven, promised for humility, skills defied despair and need – to secure victory.

Famous Belgian lace follows Venetian traditions of guipure manufacturing – components of openwork cloth with fanciful ornamentation acquired by means of either sewing or connecting separate fragments of the pattern with hairline ligaments. Distinctive texture of a cloth is achieved due to difference in thickness of core and lacing threads.

Unlike other countries, in Belgium lace knitting has never been an amusement for bored girls from noble families. Daughters of poor men took to spindles that served as the only source of income for them; establishment of exquisite Bruges style was facilitated by bishop Van Susteren who suggested creation of handcrafts to provide orphans and dowerless girls with legal income.

See also: What do they eat: Belgium

Home trade turning of into a profession has outlined broad horizons for development of techniques and methods of lace knitting. Early items that date back to 16th century were of mimical nature, imitating Italian geometric patterns carefully, however by mid-following-century three authentic styles emerged in works of Belgian lace-makers: Barbant, Brussels and Bruges.Photo 3.bp.blogspot.com

Magnificent era of baroque wallowed in playful waves of Barbant lace. Almost every field in Barbant was seeded with linen to obtain soft elastic fibers of delicate pink shade. Having absorbed moisture, linen thread would become flexible and supple therefore craftswomen used to work in damp basements in uneven light of candles. Can it be this quaint dance of shadows on unhomely stone walls where dressy motives of Barbant lace take roots – squiggly leaves of acanthus and stylized flowers, enrolled in round dances of ligature scripts?

Cellated grid made of hexagonal loops served as a background for the design, two sides of those loops were located in parallel to the basis formed by intertwinement of four remaining sides. Sometimes lacy cloth was decorated with “points d’espirit” – miniature decorative elements assembled of Richelieu loops.Things-to-do-in-Bruges-11.jpgPhoto everydaylaura.com

Before the very end of 17th century overloaded baroque splendor was shifted by flittering gracefulness of rococo. On frock coats of fashionistas from Versailles weightless Binche lace got settled like an airy web – a true treasure for romantic stories and witty allegories. Woven basis was replaced with crochet pique decorated with in-relief pattern of complete and intermittent loops made on spindlers. An interesting feature of Binche guipure was snow-white background pattern borrowed from ancient Flanders lace.

In the age of Enlightenment attention of the public switched to Brussels net lace. Large realistic flowers, wreaths, monograms and garlands that formed design were produced separately this time to be connected with thin fine-mashed net. Translucent veil woven from mysteries, hints and enigmas resounded precisely with adventurous spirit of the Fete galante. In aristocratic circles Angleterre plaiting was highly appreciated, net curtain took turn with ligaments and contours of flowers and branches were emphasized with soft relief.

Burghers’ class preferred less complicated guipures from Antwerp or Mechlin lace from Mechelen based on thick patterned net. Antwerp knitting can be easily told by repeats with flowers in pots and vases belted with ribbons and Mechelen lace acquires pronounced relief due to trimming of the pattern with voluminous shiny thread.D256_28_317_1200.jpg
Photo dissolve.com

Trademark of combined Bruges technique became masterly braided flowers and heraldic shapes scattered against the background of continuously-knitted satin ribbon accentuated with whirling curls of loopy brim. Each leaf is carefully enlaced with variously-thick silk threads to endue work of fiction with live sensitive flesh.

Several currents can be specified within the framework of Bruges style. Composition of A La Russe guipures is built around continual whirling ribbon executed with complete loops decorated with leaves and spikes. And favorite lace of Henrietta Maria, nee archduchess of Austria, did perfectly without any bases: fragments of Duchesse plaiting were connected with inkle ligaments integrated into traditional flowery pattern.

See also: We were there: Bruges

04b784b2b4d922.JPG
Photo mirtrip.com

Light Rosaline lace actively uses repeat of five openwork petals located in front of each other. The pattern has basic braided thread; free space gets filled with small refined leaves. Items created with central positioning of crocheted in-relief element, called pearls of Rosaline, are appreciated most.

Invention of bobbing-net machine simplified lace-knitting techniques significantly. In 19th century reasonably-priced appliqué lace on machine-made basis and with sewn-over pattern enjoyed demand however all in all industrialization played Old Harry with the folk trade: blistering sales build-up led to drastic simplification of repeats, breaking free flight of fancy.Photo blog.schweitzerlinen.com

Since than souvenir rows at Grand Place are almost literally swamped with lacy napkins and towels however cardboard patterns don’t inspire experienced European tourists. In the centre of lace manufacturing, Bruges, one can find curious creations of modern craftsmen however synthetic fibers have no ingratiating tenderness of Barbant linen whatsoever. True Belgian lace of ancient work is probably preserved only at antique stores to have five-digit price tags on it. Genuine beauty still steers clear of grass roots…

Cover photo pinterest.com

Вам это будет интересно:
Divine mugham: the music of Azerbaijan
There is music which brings us back to life. It happens even if the tears are falling when one listens to it. The musical genre mugham talks to the audience using the right language. Everyone has lived out unhappy love, loss of a close person or ruin of ideals. These topics became the source of inspiration for the musicians of Azerbaijan movement mugham.
We were there: Bruges
Last spring I had an opportunity to visit Belgium. A few years ago I set a goal to pedal wherever I travel. To my mind a bicycle is the best way of urban tourism. After all, it makes you an active participant of environment but not just an observer behind bus or car window...
Serpent Charmers: How to make a snake dance?
Magic dance of a snake in time with flute’s melody often described in Eastern fairy tales and depicted in movies is no fiction but a true symbol of those countries. In Egypt, India, African countries and some other states slithering tribe are tamed to make a spectacular entertainment out of it. Profession of reptile charmers exists there; it is believed to be as nearly as the most amazing on Earth.
The way they dance
What is it that characterizes any nation without much words and long explanations? Dances, of course, because it is these movements, refined over centuries, that can tell a foreigner about other peoples much more than thick history books. If you carefully watch and feel the way people dance in different countries, their mind set will become much more comprehensible. And these aren’t mere words.
What do they eat: Belgium
There is no other country in the world that has suffered so much from restaurant critics as Belgium. Riding superficially on waves of French-Italian mainstream, glossy publications scold Belgians mercilessly for their provincial tastes and universal cult of potatoes. Just think of it: to chase seafood with vulgar French fries and serve potato pudding as a main dish!
A Spot on the Map: Ilana Goor Museum
Elaborating an itinerary for a modern tourist has long ago gone beyond a simple classic conception of a trip abroad. Globetrotters of today are so demanding that travel agencies will soon run out of clients to whom to offer a standard set of historic places and souvenir shops because demand is increasing for emotions instead of traditional sightseeing tours.
Twelve guises of South Korea
Only dancing and wearing mask, Korean peasants were able to express their disgust towards rudeness or greed of the hosts or apply to some deity with extraordinary request. Keeping anonymity, the people played out the scenes from life, cried, and laughed. At the end of the performance the destiny awarded the good characters and punished villains.
Eastern music of Sufi: Qawali
‘Love evolves when one looks in the eyes of the person beloved seeing there God’, in such a way the lines of some Arabian song called Qawali is translated. The authorship of this chant is ascribed to Eastern strangers Sufi who tending to find the sense of existence strolled around the half an Earth bare-footed. In the travels they composed songs where they told narration describing what they had to endure.
Rice canvas. Tambo Art
The Japanese are very creative people, especially when it comes to rice. If they have some extra spare time and large spacious rice paddies, then routine process of growing an agricultural crop turns into art...
Mould your hobby. History of pottery
In a local history museum in every country you visit, you will certainly notice similar archaeological finds - fragments of clay products. Pottery, born millennia ago, but “living” even today, can rightfully be considered one of the most tenacious one. The uniqueness of clay was noticed by our distant ancestors who lived in caves ...
The Belgian King's Feast in Kyiv. Ambassador Alex Lenaerts Continues Annual Celebration Tradition
Philharmonic of Kyiv hosted guests of the Embassy of Belgium in Ukraine on the occasion of the King's Feast. Ambassadors Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of Finland, Japan, Norway, Slovenia, Armenia, Brazil, Argentina and other countries attended the solemn reception and the concert program.
Kabuki: thorny path of flower
Traditional Japanese kabuki theatre has always been a mystery to the European mentality: only an expert on the culture of the Land of the Rising Sun can understand a play without guide’s tips. The word kabuki is sometimes translated as "the art of singing and dancing". Why not an operetta? The essence of performance is not confined to musical presentation only...
Flamenco: guitar crying and fierce stomping
What most people know about flamenco, is that this dance is manifestation of neither love and affection, nor entertainment and revelry fun. Fiery expressive flamenco is reflection of suffering and pain of an individual within nation, always persecuted and deprived of home. The dance itself, which has become a global symbol of Spain, is not only its national heritage...
Mehndi – instead of a thousand tattoos
Every other person has considered having a tattoo, maybe not permanent but at least a temporary one. Absolutely painless application of drawings that can be altered in a couple of weeks is offered by Mehndi art – henna painting.
Kintsugi. Japanese art of restoration
The Japanese are one of those peoples who zealously respect the ancient traditions. They respect old age, being interested in ancestors and often know the family ancestry by heart. With such a worldview, it is not surprising that a unique technique for the restoration of kintsugi appeared exactly there. Read about it in OUTLOOK.
Azulejo: Story of tiles
You often got convinced that skilful hands of a master who puts life into his creation, can transform humble tree stump into a charming violin, piece of plaster becomes an ancient sculpture, and even clay tile looks like a work of fine art.
Filthy creativity
Dirty cars are like a host for an artist. One may treat such art differently. Someone will wrinkle his nose and disdainfully wrestle his clothes. Others necessarily want to put a finger in such a picture in order to check the fragility of the "canvas" and smear its outlines. However, others will definitely make a selfie. However, nobody can pass by.
Handicraft: persian carpets
In those days when the Persian soldiers were second to none, and both the Roman Empire and the Arabian Peninsula were conquered by their power, skilful fingers of winner nation craftswomen created their first masterpiece. The carpet called The Springtime passed into history as the most precious of all time. It symbolized powerful rule of the Persians, and its beauty told about the divine origin of the king Khosrow I.
Michelangelo Antonioni: a Poet of the Desert of Human Soul
Complicated spiritual world of the people of the 20th century has become a fruitful topic for many cinematographers but a special place in its exploration belongs to Antonioni. The director has gained global fame with the movies that display inner world of his contemporaries, their loneliness and lack of social connections(the concept that has become crucial in the art of the master).
Water gates. Impressive world harbors
Airports, railway and bus stations are almost always erected at a human whim, while ports and harbours are joint creation of homo sapiens and nature. In this article OUTLOOK presents you the most beautiful port destinations with their own unique character worth exploring.
Закрыть
Outlook facebook page